Skin Cycling: Why NOT to Try Latest TikTok Trend

Us beauty fanatics have all done it. We see an exciting new formula or shiny luxury brand that is advertised to erase one of our skin woes. Maybe it’s a cure for wrinkles or acne. We see the model using it has the perfect skin we want. So, we buy it and add it to our routine. Before long, our regimen involves eight different competing ingredients and our skin becomes irritated. 

Don’t follow the hype on social media beauty trends. Even if the reception is positive. Even if it sounds like the perfect excuse to add a new beauty item to your Christmas list. 

The latest skin care craze is skin cycling. It’s been introduced by a dermatologist and backed by certified estheticians and doctors. So why not try it? Because skin is an important organ that you don’t want to compromise by randomly changing up your routine or products, especially when your current skin care routine is working for you. One trend does not fit all.

What is Skin Cycling?

Skin cycling is a four-part, nighttime skin care routine promoted by Dr. Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist who introduced its current form on TikTok. The core idea behind skin cycling is to change up your nightly routine to drive results and ensure active ingredients aren’t overused so that irritation is prevented. This program allows a safer way to use exfoliants and retinol, which aid in minimizing acne, pores and hyperpigmentation and smoothing skin texture.

It's key to note that the morning routine remains the same, always including an SPF. For the evening, cleanse as normal – we recommend double-cleansing first with an oil-base to remove makeup and then with a gentle cleanser. Pat skin dry and follow each of these steps per night: 

• Night 1: Use a chemical exfoliant, like a serum, with AHA or BHA such as salicylic or glycolic acid. This preps skin for Night 2. Follow with a moisturizer.*

• Night 2: Switch out the exfoliant for a pea-size amount of retinol on dry skin, followed by a moisturizer.* We at Moonstone recommend using a corrective or peptide serum after exfoliating.

• Nights 3 & 4: Skip active ingredients to allow skin to recover and go straight to the moisturizer* that features an ingredient that will easily penetrate the skin like ceramides or squalene. In winter, use a richer moisturizer to sit onto the surface of the skin.

* Moonstone Skin & Body recommends adding hyaluronic acid serum for all nights.

Technically, this practice is not a new one, so the concept is great to learn. Most spa professionals offer a form of skin cycling in routines that include products not to be used daily. For example, you may have been recommended to incorporate an at-home peel into your routine to use once a week.  

The caveat is that this routine does not work for each person. Not everyone will see the same results. Not everyone’s skin will react the same. Not everyone should use an exfoliant or a retinol, even if skin is acne prone. The most effective skin routines are tailored by your esthetician. This is because the best steps and products are dependent on the skin type, needs and concerns, the time of the year and where you live.

Should You Start Skin Cycling This Winter?

You should NOT try skin cycling without first talking to your esthetician. Why? Because four-day cycling is not ideal for all skin types or conditions. It can be irritating to the epidermis, the very issue it’s trying to prevent. Skin cycling follows a very specific program, but there are several factors to consider that may prevent reaping in the desired benefits:

You Already Have a Working Regimen

While skin cycling is great for acne-prone skin, just because acne is your concern, does not mean switching to this trend is a great idea. This is because if you are already following a method at home that is working, you can cause damage by switching things up. Best to leave alone as acne-prone skin is sensitive skin.

You Have Sensitive Skin

With this skin type, all bets are off. The skin cycling program works best for normal skin, which is not the majority. Not everyone has the same skin type. Some people are even hypersensitive and are prone to allergies or rashes.

While there have been modifications to the skin cycling program to support sensitive skin, it mostly involves skipping a step. But each person with sensitive skin will benefit from a customized regimen that speaks to the specific issue causing the sensitivity.

Seasonal Changes

Following the same program year-round doesn’t work due to changes in the air. Skin needs change upon climate exposure. Here is why:

• In the winter and fall, more hydration is required through hydrators and humectants for better skin barrier protection. Your regular lotion either needs to switch out with a thicker moisturizer or you’ll need to add a hyaluronic acid serum. 

• In the warmer spring and summer months, there is a lot of humidity so scaling back on hydrators is key to avoid breaking out. Switch to a lighter cleanser and light gel moisturizer. It’s also important to not use retinoids in the summer. This is due to the extra sensitivity in the sun.

Where You Live or Vacation

Skin care routines must be adapted to your location’s climate. Your skin products in the Bahamas will be vastly different from Alaska. Where you live or travel to will dictate your routine. Follow the summer skin care tips when somewhere warm and the winter skin care tips if traveling to or based in a year-round ski resort, for example.

When IS Skin Cycling a Good Idea?

This practice can be beneficial under a couple of different scenarios:

Skin Care Newbies

If you have never had a skin care routine but are ready to try, skin cycling can be a great introduction as it’s easy to follow. 

Also, this way, you can figure out how skin care products react to your skin. Start out slow, with less exfoliant, and watch if the exfoliant is too strong on your skin. Pay attention to any allergic reaction. 

It’s also critical to figure out how much retinol to use. Start with a pea size amount. While this is a key step to skin cycling, one retinoid also does not fit all. We do not recommend it for everyone.

New Product Introduction

If you are trying a new brand or skin product to work into your regimen, then this cycling system is a great way to test it out. You’ll know right away if your skin doesn’t like it as you’ve already been practicing a tried-and-true regimen. It’s also, therefore, easy to identify the culprit for any new skin issue that may result. Therefore, only add one new product at a time.

One example is with exfoliation. It can be tricky given so many options and active ingredients to choose from like glycolic, salicylic or lactic acid. This is where people get into trouble because if they use too much exfoliation, they could overexpose the skin, causing irritation to the skin barrier. This can lead to dermatitis or eczema.

However, when you select this new skin care item, it’s best to talk to your esthetician first to be sure the ingredients have a good chance of reacting well with your skin care routine. 

The Bottom Line: No Trend Fits All

Don’t follow all the trends you see pop up on social media, whether they are proven or not. When it comes to your skin care, it’s always best to proceed with caution and check in with your dermatologist or esthetician.